Progression of a Garment – Part 1

I know I’ve rather failed at keeping up with this blog. Sometimes when I’m doing something, I’m thinking in terms of blogging about it and then pictures don’t happen so then the blog post doesn’t happen. When I get inspired to sew often, I just start hacking away at the material with scissors and go go go, sew sew sew until it’s all done and then, where’s the tutorial in that.

What I’m posting today happened in much the same way but I think I have something to talk about here anyway.

I’ve been weaving more and I want to weave fabric to sew. I have this linen sitting on the shelf in the shop that is begging to be turned into cloth.
pt1-linenthread

But first, I figured that I should start with some off the shelf linen.
pt1-linencloth

But then, I should probably make a “muslin” first especially since my design idea comes from a jersey shirt.
pt1-thejerseytop

I like the shirt to a degree. It was one of those $2 finds at Old Navy. It’s an ugly shirt that came pre-frayed. Normally I avoid that this was long, stretchy and cheap. I figured it would be good to wear to yoga since it would cover my butt to and from class at least. Well, the shirt is wonky after about 15 minutes of wear. The material is shoddy. I could make a new one out of knit jersey and I still may. I wanted a regular tunic out of the linen though and this is the relative shape I want.

The problems of going from a knit fabric to a woven are all about stretch. But this has buttons at the neckline, the neck is huge and the body is pretty large as well. I measured myself in vital areas (bust and hips), I made a mock up pattern using the knit jersey shirt for shaping making sure that I exceeded my vital measurements. Here’s what we have now.
pt1-themuslin

Here’s what we’re going to improve on:
pt1-themuslin-changes
1: We could add bust darts
2: we could add waist shaping in lines. These don’t have to be just even lines, often they’re crescent shaped or triangles where you want more cinching to be. If I ever get to another post and these fixes, I’ll show you what I mean on the inside of the garment.
3: the hips are a tad snug when moving around which will cause this shirt to rise up. The fix is to make the sides open or make them wider.
4: (not in the photo) a fix for the back and waist shaping, we can add shirring just over the waist.
5: This is a completely different garment but its got elastic just under the bust and A-lines out. This is a pretty easy fix to the shapeless shift.
pt1-anotheridea

Note that mock up “muslins” don’t need to be in actual muslin. I figured I’d want to wear this shirt and muslin just isn’t me. I plan to make a couple of small changes to this garment and then it will become part of my wardrobe.

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One Response to Progression of a Garment – Part 1

  1. This is why I avoid old navy. Their stuff is not made well at all. I bought a shirt there once, and after one washing on the gentle cycle it was completely out of shape and wonky. Never again.

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